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Ketchikan, Alaska
Much More than Catch as Catch Can
by Norman E. Hill 'The Tandem
Traveler'
On June 30, 2011, our IFWTWA group toured the landlocked town of Ketchikan, Alaska. This was a morning walking tour and, while there was intermittent rain, it couldn’t spoil our positive experience.
After we split into three subgroups, for me, the most enjoyable part was the two or so hours our subgroup spent with Dave Kiffer, Mayor of the Ketchikan Gateway Borough. He was very entertaining, knowledgeable, and articulate—what a combination!
The town of Ketchikan has about 8,900 population and the entire county, including the town, about 13, 000.
Kiffer said that the state is often about equally divided on controversial issues, frequently centering around development. One half wants no development, the other half wants completely unfettered development. He said that intelligent development could work wonders for Alaska. For example, clear cutting of forest trees, if applied to, say, 25% of all trees, would result in an open area that would completely replenish itself and grow back within a generation.
However, Kiffer warned about a shortage of dams to be used to harness water flow and control the production of electricity. I wasn’t sure if population growth is a threat, actual reduction in the number of dams (which seems to be a goal of environmentalist leaders), or a combination. In any event, dam capacity isn’t enough to provide needed electricity for very long—at current costs. If no changes are made, Alaska’s electricity costs will go through the roof.
In response to my question, Kiffer confirmed that, due to Ketchikan’s landlocked status, there are a great many private planes in use. The great majority of these are seaplanes. His argument made sense. If a pilot is in the air and runs into fuel problems or mechanical problems, where can he make an emergency landing? There are the grim alternatives of mountains, rocks, thick forests, and—water. Rivers represent a source of survival for seaplanes, as well as the source of delicious salmon.
From other independent sources, I more or less confirmed to myself that many of these seaplane pilots don’t have an official pilot’s license. But even so, we should remember that most of their trips are short, often to pick up needed supplies. Also, I’m sure that they stick to “VFR”, meaning visual flight conditions only, without resorting to the more professional demands of radar training. Since many we trained to fly from childhood, handling these seaplanes is akin to driving a car.
The Tandem Travelers are a traveling writing team made up of Maralyn D. Hill and
Brenda C. Hill -
Historically, the sister town of Skagway, not landlocked, was the 1890s starting
point for gold-
Like so many newly settled frontier towns, Ketchikan has its share of a bawdy past.
One historic street called Creek Street, still on planks, contains some of these original structures or restored versions. Many saloons did business on this street, and a substantial number of whorehouses as well. Whether by statute or custom, some of these houses were so small, as to accommodate only two ladies of the evening. Creek Street was referred to the “Married Man’s Trail.” As the men visited the brothels, their wives would not see them. Gradually, as ever more trappings of civilization moved in, Ketchikan’s environment became tamer and more mainstream.
As small and isolated at Ketchikan is, it is a vibrant community. The residents stay all year, there are over 30 restaurants featuring seafood to ethnic and everything in between. Dungeness crab, halibut, King salmon and chowder are local favorites. Local chefs prepared a delicious feast of local dishes for us to experience during our short stop. If something is not grown, caught, or produced in Ketchikan, it probably arrived by barge, followed by state ferry and air delivery.
For those wanting to research the Native tribes of Southeast Alaska, Ketchikan is home to the Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian. It also is known for the largest collection of totem poles anywhere in the world, with more than 80.
All in all, Ketchikan was a fascinating place around which to be escorted and tour. I’m certainly glad I wound up in our subgroup and would look forward to a return trip to explore more.
Photos courtesy of Ketchikan Visitors Bureau